Ice Gulch Path
Date: August 31, 2018
Miles: 6
Weather: Sunny, 70s
Time: 2.5
Trails: Ice Gulch Path, Boothman Spring Cutoff, Peboamauk Loop, Cook Path
Nancy’s Facebook Post:
Pat and I survived Ice Gulch Path yesterday — The White Mountain Guide calls it “one of the most difficult and strenuous trail segments in the White Mountains.” We scrambled over, under and around wet, slippery, moss-dripping boulders for 3.5 hours before rising out of the gulch just .9 miles later. The moss has grown in between the boulders, so sometimes when I thought I was stepping on ground, my foot would plunge through into a gaping hole between the rocks. That happened twice and my shoulders became permanently stuck to my ear lobes. We squeezed through openings between boulders, shimmied our butts up wet mossy rock to get ourselves on top, slid down wet rock holding onto roots and tree branches and took a few leaps that were definitely outside of my short-legged comfort zone. It was intense and I would be lying if I didn’t tell you I was scared at times. And we were so grateful and relieved to see the sun as we reached the head (end) of the gulch.
Teamwork and friendship played the largest part in our success. We helped each other through the experience, each bringing something to the wet-mossy-strewn-slippery-exhilarating-terrifying experience. I found ways around a few undoable situations and was able to push Pat up a couple times; Pat lead the way, lending me a hand up and over boulders that I could not navigate with my short legs; and we encouraged each other every step of the way. The Ice Gulch Path stayed true to its name – we did see ice in August!
Pat’s Trip Report:
I throw out the idea of hiking the Ice Gulch Path as an option for our next hike and Nancy sinks her teeth into it despite the trip reports she reads and the photos she sees. Beautiful country on the north end of the Presidential Range up near Randolph, NH. We park across the street from Sky Meadow Farm on Randolph Hill Road and are treated with fantastic, unexpected and dominant views of Madison and Adams. We head north 2 miles on the Ice Gulch Path, a relatively gentle trail that rolls up and down the terrain that holds it close. We reach the “Marked Birch” [Why is it called that? I did some research but found no answers.] and head up the Ice Gulch Path to the junction of the Peboamauk Loop. We decide to do the loop and grab some redline miles.
The Peboamauk Trail descends sharply and I maneuver without poles while carrying some anxiety of going down without them. Our walk down toward Peboamauk Falls takes us through a maze of moss-covered rocks. I feel like I am in a completely different ecological world as we walk along Moose Brook. Nothing hinders my view of the bottom of the stream water – it’s exquisitely clear. The trail crosses the brook several times, a few times easy crossings and a few times a bit more difficult.
We return to the Ice Gulch Path and reach the bottom of the talus field. The right side was a field of huge boulders. Lichen is the primary vegetation in this jumble of rocks. To the left, the more shaded side, there are evergreens and moss. We take a brief break and eat a snack all the while staring at the sight ahead of us. Putting on our light day-packs back on, we head up the gulch. The first tenth of a mile or so is pretty dry and challenging only because the gaps between boulders are wide and deep.
I lead for most of the hike. Rarely is there a moment when I don’t put my boot down on a rock that’s not at an angle. Moments of flat ground are few. The blazes are often difficult to follow. I find myself face to face with a blaze but see no other blazes ahead no matter how far to the left or right I move. I feel a mixture of fear and frustration when I lose the blaze. I don’t have a lot of extra energy to have to work so hard to stay on the trail.
When we enter the vestibule, the rocks become ski slopes and I trust nothing. Every climbing problem is a struggle. We see the herd paths people have used to avoid some of these climbing problems – sometimes I take them and sometimes I don’t. I try to stay on the trail. We dig deep into ourselves and think of ways we can pass through, over or around the boulders confronting us. We talk a lot about what to do. We try different approaches and moves. In my hiking years in the Whites, I have never been confronted with so many daunting problems. Nancy is fantastic, stepping in and seeing the solution to climbing problems when I can’t see anything. Sometimes I start up one way and she calls me back, showing me a better way through. I bless her for that.
There is no place to rest, no place to stop and eat. We are continually on the move. As soon as we get through one area, we’re faced with another challenge. More than once I find myself splay-legged between two boulders, desperately hoping I can swing my body over to the next boulder and keep moving on.
We start finding easier trail as we move up through the “wall”. Several times we think we’re at the top but are disappointed by yet another section of climbing. Finally we make it up and can walk again on level land again. The hike back down the Cook Path is spent talking about our experience in Ice Gulch. I am pleased with our creativity and resilience. I am also very glad the day is finally winding to a close.